Episode 93: Fish

Pan Fried Wing of Skate in Black Butter with Cashews and Pink Grapefruit
Picatta of Monkfish
Pan Fried Pike Finger with Black Olives and Tomatoes
Oached Darne of Halibut Stuffed with a Salmon Mousse
Crispy Salmon Skin
Salmon and Halibut Weaving with a Champagne and Mustard Sauce

PAN FRIED WING OF SKATE IN BLACK BUTTER WITH CASHEWS AND PINK GRAPEFRUIT
Preparation is moderate

1 wing of skate, 18-20 ounces (530-620 grams)
3 tablespoons butter (45 millilitres)
Splash of olive oil
3 tablespoons cashew nuts
½ pink grapefruit, segmented
½ tablespoon chopped parsley (10 millilitres)
½ cup flour (60 grams)
Salt and pepper

Preparation time is 20 minutes

To clean the wing of skate, take a large, flexible fish-filleting knife, starting at the thick end of the wing, gently work the skin away from the flesh sufficiently, so that you may grab the skin firmly with your fingers and pull towards the thin end of the wing and then remove. Repeat on both sides, sometimes a little of the skin can be difficult to remove. Using the fish knife, insert underneath the section of the skin remaining on the wing and ease off gently.

The other method for removing the skin is by plunging the skate wing into boiling water for 20 to 30 seconds. Remove it from boiling water and plunge it immediately into an ice bath. This only cooks the skin, which can then be easily removed from the wing.

Using the same sharp fish knife, remove the fleshy part of the wing from the cartilage, thick end first. Do this to both sides, toss into the seasoned flour and then gently panfry in a good cast iron pan over medium heat. It is best fried in a combination of a small amount of oil and butter. Always place presentation side down first. Gently fry both sides until lightly golden brown. This should take no more than 3 to 4 minutes. Remove the fish from pan and keep hot.

Drain sauté pan of excess oil and debris. Return it to the heat and add 2 tablespoons of unsalted butter. Allow the butter to melt and bubble and watch as it turns to a nut- brown colour and then slightly darker. This method is called buerre noire or black butter - which has a rich nutty flavor. Just as it is turning to this stage, toss in the cashews, grapefruit segments, chopped parsley, salt and pepper. Remove the pan from the heat and place the hot skate on a serving plate and pour the sauce over the top and serve.

Yield: 2 servings
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PICATTA OF MONKFISH
Preparation is easy

One medium size monkfish tail
1 egg
Pinch of saffron strands
½ cup of flour (60 grams)
2 tablespoons of butter (30 millilitres)
Splash of olive oil

Preparation time is 30 minutes

Clean the monkfish by removing the outer skin. Trimming off any traces of fins, and then take a sharp fillet knife, clean the dark membrane that covers the monkfish, which when removed will reveal the rich, white flesh of the monkfish. Then run your knife along the backbone, which more resembles a cartilage and trim any sinewy membrane that may be attached to the fillet.

Cut the fillet into three equal pieces approximately two - 2-½ ounces each. Place them between 2 sheets of plastic and gently pound until approximately 4 to5 inches in diameter

Take the saffron, pour 1 or 2 tablespoons of boiling water over the saffron, and allow it to steep for a few moments. Crack the egg, beat it gently, and in a separate bowl season the flour with salt and pepper. Once the saffron tea has cooled, add this mixture to the egg. Then take the monkfish and lightly dredge it in the seasoned flour, shaking to remove any excess flour. Dip it into the egg, drain well and then gently panfry it in a heavy-bottomed frying pan in a small amount of olive oil and butter over a medium heat. Do not let the fish colour more than a very little. The picatta of monkfish will turn a beautiful rich yellow colour and become flavoured with an intense perfume of saffron.

This dish is best served with pancetta risotto.

Yield: 2 servings
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PAN FRIED PIKE FINGERS WITH BLACK OLIVES AND TOMATOES
Preparation is moderate

1 3-pound pike, de-boned (1.5 kilos)
6 cooked artichoke bottoms, diced
6 ounces mushrooms, sliced (175 grams)
1/3 cup Hernder Estates Chardonnay (70 millilitres)
1 tablespoon olive oil (15 millilitres)
1 tablespoon butter (15 millilitres)
3 tablespoons chopped parsley (40 millilitres)
1 tablespoon lemon juice (15 millilitres)
3 tomatoes, diced
1 cup flour
Salt and pepper

Preparation time is 20 minutes

Cut the pike into 3 to 4-inch length strips and dust them with seasoned flour. Melt the butter and oil in a cast iron pan over a medium-high heat and sauté the pike until golden brown. Remove the pike from the pan and keep it warm.

Using the same pan, sauté the artichoke bottoms, which have been previously cooked and diced. In a little more olive oil and butter, add a few mushrooms of choice, black olives, a splash of white wine, handful of chopped parsley, squeeze of lemon juice, and fresh diced tomatoes. This makes a delicious ragoût base for the pike. Toss the pike back into the mixture and turn on to a serving plate.

Yield: 4 servings
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POACHED DARNE OF HALIBUT STUFFED WITH A SALMON MOUSSE
Preparation is moderate

1 large halibut (or turbot) to cut into darnes
4 ounces of salmon (125 grams)
½ egg white
8 fluid ounces cream (250 millilitres)
Splash of vermouth
1 tablespoon of finely minced chives (10 millilitres)
1 cup of Hernder Estates Reisling (250 millilitres)
3 cups of fish stock (750 millilitres)
Salt and pepper to taste

Preparation time is 40 minutes
Preheat the oven to 320 degrees Fahrenheit

Fillet the halibut or turbot on a cutting board using a large sharp French knife and remove all the fins. Split the fish in half from the tail end first, working towards the head. Once at the gills, cut tight to the gills to cleanly remove one side of the halibut. Cut two centre pieces of the halibut approximately 10 ounces each in weight. Then, using a small knife, remove the bone from the centre of the darne. Place in a deep dish, which has been lightly buttered and refrigerate.

To make the salmon mousse, take the well-chilled salmon and dice it, then puree in a food processor. Add the egg white, a splash of vermouth and a little cream at a time until the right consistency has been reached. The mousse should form soft peaks. Season with salt, pepper and place the mixture into a piping bag with a plain tip.

Take the darne out of the fridge and pipe the salmon mousse into the centre cavity, which has been created by removing the bones. Fill the cavity to about a ½-inch above the top and place the fish back into the deep dish. Heat the fish stock in a saucepan until hot but not boiling. Season it well.

Add the hot fish stock and white wine. Cover the dish with a sheet of parchment paper and poach in the oven for approximately 12 to 18 minutes. When cooked allow the fish to relax for a few minutes and remove the skin. Make a simple sauce using a little of the fish stock. Place the fish on the sauce, sprinkle with freshly chopped chives and serve.

Note: The mousse for this dish can be made from sea scallops, pike, shrimp and can be garnished with sliced truffles, caviar, or lobster tail. It is also a common practice to sometime remove the skin of the halibut or turbot once it has been poached.

Yield: 1 serving per darne
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CRISPY SALMON SKIN
Preparation is easy

Preheat the oven to 250 degrees Fahrenheit
Preparation time is 2 hours 20 minutes

Brush the salmon skin with olive oil and sprinkle it with sea salt. Sandwich the skin between two silpat or non-stick cookie trays, weighted down with a couple of bricks or ovenproof kitchen weights. Bake for approximately 1 hour and 45 minutes before removing the top silpat to crisp the fish skin.

Use to decorate any fish dish.
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SALMON AND HALIBUT WEAVING WITH A CHAMPAGNE MUSTARD SAUCE
Preparation is moderate

2 skinless salmon fillets of approximately 4 ounces each (125 grams)
2 skinless halibut fillets of approximately 4 ounces each (125 grams)
Salt and pepper
Champagne Mustard Sauce:
1 cup of fish stock (250 millilitres)
2 tablespoons butter (30 millilitres)
¼ cup Hernder Estates Reisling (60 millilitres)
1 shallot finely diced
¼ cup Hernder Estates Champagne (60 millilitres)
½ cup 35 % cream (125 millilitres)
Squeeze of lemon juice
Salt and Pepper to taste
1 tablespoon freshly chopped chives (10 millilitres)
1 tablespoon of tomato concassé (15 millilitres)
½ teaspoon Dijon mustard

Preparation time is 30 minutes

Cut the fish into equal length strips, approximately 4 to 5 inches in length and an inch wide. Weave them to create a lattice pattern, and hold them together at either end with a toothpick if needed. Season with salt and pepper.

To make the sauce, gently sauté the shallots in the butter over a medium-low heat in a cast iron skillet. Do not let them colour. Add the white wine, reduce the volume by half and add the fish stock. Reduce the volume of liquid by half again, add the champagne, cream, squeeze of lemon juice and season with salt and pepper. Pass the sauce through a fine sieve. The sauce should be slightly thicker from reducing, just enough to cover the back of a spoon.

Steam the fish weave for about 6 minutes or until cooked, (the salmon should remain slightly translucent in the centre) in bamboo steamer placed over a saucepan of boiling water.

Before serving, add the fresh chopped chives, tomato concassé and Dijon mustard to the sauce. Stir well. Pour the sauce onto a plate and place the fish on top.

Yield: 2 servings
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Recipes courtesy of Chef Michael Bonacini of Toronto’s Oliver Bonacini Restaurants, including ‘Canoe’; ‘Auberge du Pommier’; ‘Biff’s’; ‘Jump Café’; & ‘Steakfrites’