Episode 113: Gelatine

Tuna Popsicles in Lemongrass Jelly
Mandarin Jellies
Port and Claret Jelly with Pan Fried Lamb Cutlets
Foie Gras with Gewurztraminer Jelly
Quail Eggs in Consomme

TUNA POPSICLES IN LEMONGRASS JELLY
Preparation is difficult

2 heads of lemongrass
3 cups water (750 millilitres)
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 gelatine sheet, softened in
10 ounces sushi grade tuna (175 grams)
Sea salt and black pepper

Preparation time is 3 hours

Clean and trim the lemongrass stalks. Bruise them with the back of a knife and drop them into the water. Simmer gently for an hour, then remove the lemongrass and boil the liquid until it reduces by just over half in volume. Add the lemon juice.

Soften the gelatine in a small amount of cold water. Remove the sheet, squeeze to remove any excess water and add the gelatine to the warm lemongrass water. Stir to dissolve. Allow the liquid to cool to room temperature, as it should not cook the tuna on contact.

Cut your tuna into 1-inch by 1-inch cubes. Roll it in coarse sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to coat.

In six shot glasses, put a piece of tuna in each one. Add a long wooden cocktail stick to each one and pour the lemongrass jelly around to cover. Leave them to set in the fridge for at least two hours.

Serve either in the glass or turn out the Popsicles onto a plate and allow each person to help themselves.

Yield: 6 servings.
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MANDARIN JELLIES
Preparation is easy

20 grams gelatine leaves (just under 1 ounce)
800 millilitres strained mandarin juice (3 ¼ cups)
2 tablespoons sugar (30 millilitres)
100 millilitres mandarin-flavoured vodka
2 oranges, peeled

Preparation time is 20 minutes, 3 hours setting time

Soften the gelatine in a small amount of cold water for 2 to 3 minutes. Drain and squeeze out any excess water.

Put the mandarin juice and sugar in a saucepan and stir over a low heat until the sugar dissolves. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the softened gelatine leaves and the vodka.

Cut the oranges into segments, being careful to cut out as much of the pith as possible. Lay two segments in the bottom of each 125-millilitre dariole mould and spoon over enough mandarin liquid to cover them. Refrigerate for 45 minutes, or until firm and then fill up the moulds to the top with the remainder of the liquid. Refrigerate until firm, at least 2 hours.

To serve, warm the jellies in water for a few seconds and then turn them out on to six plates. Decorate with more segments of orange and a piece of star anise.

Yield: 6 servings
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PORT AND CLARET JELLY WITH PAN FRIED LAMB CUTLETS
Preparation is easy

175 millilitres claret (6 fl oz)
175 millilitres tawny port (6 fl oz)
2 tablespoons redcurrant jelly (30 millilitres)
1 sachet (11 g) gelatine granules
1 cinnamon stick
1 whole clove
2 cardamom pods, bruised
150 millilitres hot water (5 fl oz)
3 heaped tablespoons granulated sugar (50 millilitres)


Preparation time is 20 minutes, 2 hours chilling time

Put the claret, port, redcurrant jelly, sugar and spices in a saucepan. Heat them gently, to just under boiling then reduce the heat to a simmer. Gently simmer for 10 minutes.

Remove the pan from the heat and leave the liquid to cool slightly, and then strain it into a jug.

Dissolve the gelatine granules in the hot water. Mix together the gelatine and claret mixture in the jug. Pour into mini moulds. When cool, refrigerate the jellies for at least 2 hours. Turn out the jellies as accompaniment to lamb cutlets or serve them with fresh berries.

Yield: 6 servings
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FOIE GRAS WITH GEWURZTRAMINER JELLY
Preparation is easy

6 slices terrine de foie gras or poached foie gras
1 cup Gewurztraminer wine (250 millilitres)
1/4-cup water (60 millilitres)
1-½ gelatine sheets
Salt and pepper

Preparation time is 20 minutes, setting time 3 hours

Put the wine and the water to heat gently for 10 minutes. Put the gelatine sheets in a small amount of cold water for 4 to 5 minutes, to soften.

Drain the water and squeeze out the gelatine sheets. Take the wine off the heat and add the gelatine, stirring until it completely dissolves.

Pour the wine mixture into a bowl and set it aside to cool and then solidify in the fridge.

Slice the foie gras if you have a whole lobe and break up the gewürztraminer jelly with a knife to make smallish crystals. Serve in a pile alongside the foie gras slice with toast points.

Yield: 6 servings
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QUAIL EGGS IN CONSOMME
Preparation is easy

2 sachets gelatine
Salt and pepper
2 tablespoons lemon juice (30 millilitres)
300 millilitres dry white wine (1 1/3 cups)
300 millilitres chicken consommé (1 1/3 cups)
Fresh tarragon
12 quail eggs

Preparation time is 20 minutes, setting time 2 hours

Put the quail eggs to boil in water for about 8 minutes. Dissolve the gelatin in a small amount of hot water; add the lemon juice, consommé and wine. Stir so that it is well mixed.

Lightly oil 6 moulds or ramekins. Lay a sprig of tarragon in the bottom. Peel the quail eggs and cut them into thin slices so that each ones shows white and yellow. Very finely brunoise the red and yellow peppers. Add them to the gelatine liquid. Lay a slice of quail egg alongside the tarragon and pour enough of the gelatine-wine-stock mix to cover. Chill for at least 2 hours. To serve, briefly dip the moulds in hot water and turn out on to toast or to decorate a napoleon.

Peel the remaining quail eggs and drop one each into a square shot glass. Add some very finely chopped pieces of red, green and yellow pepper, like confetti, and add the consommé mix to cover. Turn out and serve as finger food.

Yield: 6 servings
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Recipes courtesy of Chef Michael Bonacini of Toronto’s Oliver Bonacini Restaurants, including ‘Canoe’; ‘Auberge du Pommier’; ‘Biff’s’; ‘Jump Café’; & ‘Steakfrites’