Episode 120: Eggs

The Best Scrambled Eggs
Baked Scrambled Eggs
Baked Egg-Shell Truffle Custard
Poached Quails Eggs and Bacon
Blue Cheese and Potato Frittata

THE BEST SCRAMBLED EGGS
Preparation is easy

5 eggs or 1 ostrich egg
1-½ tablespoons butter (35 millilitres)
3 tablespoons cream (45 millilitres)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Combine the eggs, butter, pinch of salt and pepper in a non-stick saucepan or skillet with sloping sides. Turn the heat to medium-high and beat the egg mixture. Stir constantly, but steadily.

As the butter melts, the mixture will begin to thicken. This will take between 3 and 8 minutes. Continue to stir until the eggs are creamy with small curds. Remove from the heat, stir in the cream and serve immediately.

Add caviar or smoked salmon for that extra flavour.

Yield: 2 servings
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BAKED SCRAMBLED EGGS
Preparation is easy

6 eggs
6 tablespoons (90 millilitres) cooked tomato concasse,
Mushroom duxelles or creamed spinach
180 millilitres heavy cream (6 fluid ounces)
Salt and pepper
6 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese (90 millilitres)

Preparation time is 20 minutes
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit

Place a tablespoon of tomato concasse, mushroom mixture or creamed spinach in the bottom of each ramekin. Break one egg over the top. Pour two tablespoonfuls of cream over the top of each egg. Season with salt and pepper and then sprinkle with Parmesan cheese.

Place the ramekins in a baking dish just large enough to hold them. Pour in enough boiling water to come halfway up their sides. Bake in the oven until the whites are firm but the yolk is still runny, about 10 minutes.

Yield: 6 servings
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BAKED EGG-SHELL TRUFFLE CUSTARD
Preparation is easy

2 large eggs and 8 shells
2/3-cup milk (150 millilitres)
2/3-cup heavy cream (150 millilitres)
1 ½ - tablespoons truffle oil (45 millilitres)
Salt and pepper

Preparation time is 55 minutes
Preheat the oven to 275 degrees Fahrenheit

Heat the milk and the cream together in a saucepan. As soon as it reaches a boil, remove it from the heat. Pour the milk-cream into the bowl of a food processor and turn it on. Add the truffle oil and then the two eggs, salt and pepper. Beat until well mixed.

Strain the custard mixture through a chinois into a jug. Let the custard sit and skim off any foam that rises to the top. Pour the mixture into the eggshells, filling them two-thirds full. Prop the eggs upright in a cardboard egg carton in a baking dish. Fill the dish up to halfway up the outside of the eggshells with hot water to form a Bain Marie. Cover the pan with a lid and bake for 40 to 45 minutes.

Serve the baked custards with shavings of black truffle on top and a chive.

Yield: 8 servings
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POACHED QUAILS EGGS AND BACON
Preparation is difficult

16 quail eggs
2 tablespoons vinegar
4 slices bacon
4 tablespoons beurre monte
Salt and pepper
12 curls of Melba toast

Preparation time is 20 minutes

Bring a large pot of water to a good simmer. Make sure that there is at least 6 inches of water for the eggs to poach. Add the vinegar.

There may be some eggs that fall apart, so it is best to do a few extra here. Take each egg and lay it in your hand on a towel. With a knife, cut off the thick end of the shell, making a large enough hole for the egg and yolk to come out of. Put the egg back in the carton until you have done them all.

Then, pour the eggs carefully into the simmering water. They should take about 2 minutes to cook, until the white is set but the yolk is still runny. Remove the quail eggs with a slotted spoon and plunge them into ice water until you are ready to use them (they keep up to two days).

Meanwhile, chop the bacon into very fine lardons and fry until crisp.

If you're going to serve the eggs immediately, put them gently into a pan with a knob of butter or some beurre monte. Coat them well.

To serve, place two quail eggs per person on a small plate. Sprinkle bacon pieces over the top and place a curl of Melba toast on the side. Give a good screw of black pepper over the whole and serve immediately.

Yield: 6 servings.
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BLUE CHEESE AND POTATO FRITTATA
Preparation is easy

1-tablespoon butter (15 millilitres)
1-tablespoon olive oil (15 millilitres)
3 onions, thinly sliced
8 eggs
¾ cup cream (6 fluid ounces)
1 cup potato, cooked and diced (200 grams)
½ cup crumbled blue cheese such as Danish Blue or Stilton
1-tablespoon fresh thyme (10 millilitres)

Preparation time is 20 minutes

Put the butter and the oil in a frying pan over a low heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, for 10 to 15 minutes, until the onions are golden brown, soft and caramelized.

Sprinkle the cubed potatoes over the onions.

Put the eggs and the cream in a bowl and beat together. Pour the egg mixture over the onions and potatoes and sprinkle with the blue cheese and thyme leaves. Cook for 5 to 6 minutes, or until nearly set. Then move the pan and place under the broiler for one minute. Cut into wedges and serve with spicy chutney.

Yield: 4 to 6 servings.
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Recipes courtesy of Chef Michael Bonacini of Toronto’s Oliver Bonacini Restaurants, including ‘Canoe’; ‘Auberge du Pommier’; ‘Biff’s’; ‘Jump Café’; & ‘Steakfrites’