Episode 157: Game Birds

Grill Quail w/ Wilted Cabbage Slaw
Tea Smoked Duck
Roasted Pheasant in a Creamed Port Gravy
Drambuie Duck

GRILL QUAIL WITH WILTED CABBAGE SLAW

Marinade
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper - (5ml)
¼ cup cider vinegar - (60ml)
¼ cup molasses - (60ml)
¼ cup olive oil -(60ml)
1-teaspoon ground allspice - (5ml)
1-teaspoon salt - (5ml)

6 semi-boneless quail (call butcher ahead to confirm if available)
3 cups of coarsely grated green & red cabbage - (750ml)
2 medium carrots, grated
3 cups thinly sliced arugula - (750ml)
4 scallions, sliced thin
3 tablespoons cider vinegar - (45ml)
2 teaspoons honey - (20ml)
4 bacon slices, chopped coarse
1 teaspoon caraway seeds, crushed lightly - (5ml)
Red cabbage
Green cabbage

Preparation time is 15 minutes, cooking time 1.5hrs

Starting with marinade in large bowl combine: ¼ cup of cider vinegar, 1 teaspoon of ground pepper, 3 tablespoons cider vinegar, ¼ cup molasses, ¼ cup olive oil, 1 teaspoon allspice and, 1 teaspoon of salt.

Clean the quail by quickly cleaning with water then dry with kitchen paper. Season each bird with salt and pepper. Move quail to a large dish, big enough to hold all birds and with a flat bottom. Pour marinade overtop of quail, turning to coat all sides. Cover and let chill in fridge at least 24 hrs up to 48hrs

When ready to continue, let quail warm to room temperature and preheat the grill. Season each quail with salt & pepper. With a rag soaked in oil, rub the grill rack. Place the quail carefully on the grill. Leave some room between quail to avoid crowding. The quail should grill 3 to 4 minutes on each side over glowing coals. Ideally the meat will still be pink.

To maintain warmth, move quail to a plate and cover, while starting the slaw.

Combine the grated carrots, green and red cabbages in a medium bowl.

Then, in another bowl whisk together the 3 tablespoon of cider vinegar, and 2 teaspoons honey. Over medium heat cook bacon in a heavy frying pan, stir occasionally till crisp. Move bacon into a bowl, leaving behind the grease in the pan.

Toss the caraway seeds in the greasy pan let them roast over medium to high heat. Stir occasionally until fragrant. Add the slaw mixture, then the vinegar mixture and season. Sauté until the cabbage starting to wilt, for about a minute. Remove from heat and then add the thinly sliced arugula and chopped scallions. Toss contents in skillet around till all is wilted faintly.

Plate two birds per plate with slaw on the side.

Serves 6 as appetizer
Back to top


GREEN TEA SMOKED DUCK

1 5 lb fresh duck
¼ cup of salt to rub duck
2 x 2 inch cinnamon sticks
3 pieces start anise
3 thick slices of fresh ginger
2 teaspoons sugar
2 teaspoons salt
1 tablespoon of maple syrup
1/3 cup dry sherry
2/3 cup green tea leaves
6 cups peanut oil

Preparation time: 45 min.
Cooking time: 3 ½ hours
Heat oven to 350° F

Have butcher clean the duck well - removing membranes, fat and head, but leaving the wings attached. Wash under cold water. Sprinkle with ¼ cup of salt on the outside of the duck and rub it thoroughly. Rinse well and pat dry with a clean towel.

Place the duck in a steam proof dish. Add cinnamon sticks, anise, and ginger. Using a pastry brush coat the duck with maple syrup. Combine sugar and salt in a small bowl. Season the duck inside and out with the sugar/salt mixture. Pour sherry over duck. Sit the dish on a rack over 2 quarts of boiling water. Cover and steam for 1 hour and 20 minutes.

Replenish water in steamer as necessary - approximately every 20 minutes if using a wok.

Remove the duck and let it sit at room temperature until cool.

Place tea leaves in a dry wok over high heat until the leaves begin to smoke. Reduce the heat slightly and place your steamed duck on a rack overtop of the leaves. Place a wet cloth around the rim of the wok and use it to seal the lid on top. Let smoke for 7-10 minutes

Transfer the smoked duck to a roasting pan. Cover and roast for ½ hour.

Flip the duck and continue to roast for another ½ hour.

Remove the duck and let it cool at room temperature for 30 minutes.

Place you peanut oil in a large pot and bring to 400 degrees Fahrenheit. Using a large Chinese strainer, carefully lower duck into the oil. Use a ladle to spoon the hot oil over the duck. Flip the bird after 5 minutes and continue to the fry the other side in the same fashion. Fry until the duck is a beautiful golden brown.

Strain the duck over a bowl for 10 minutes.

Carve and serve.

Yield: 6 servings
Back to top


ROASTED PHEASANT IN A CREAMED PORT GRAVY

1 Pheasant
1 ½ cup Port
5 thin slices Onion
2 tablespoon wild mushroom, finely chopped
1 cup Chicken stock
1 Bay leaf
2 Cloves, whole
1 Garlic clove
1 tablespoons Parsley, chopped fine
2 tablespoons Celery leaves, chopped fine
1 slice Lemon (peeled and chopped)
10 Juniper berries
1 Tangerine (whole) - peeled
1/4 lb Larding pork or bacon
10 Peppercorns, crushed
1/4 cup Tangerine Liqueur or Orange juice
1 cup Sour cream

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.
Cooking Time: 1 hour

Rub pheasant inside and out with salt and pepper. Stuff the bird with bay leaf, cloves, parsley, celery leaves, lemon, and juniper berries. Place garlic inside the tangerine and stuff inside pheasant. Drizzle 1 tablespoon of port over the bird.

Close the body cavity of the pheasant shut with a toothpick or needle. Add 1 tablespoon of port to a plate. Dip larding pork or bacon into the fortified wine and place on top of pheasant breast.

Add onion slices, mushrooms, & juniper berries to the bottom of a roasting pan. Place your pheasant on top. Pour chicken stock, remaining cup of port, and Mandarine liqueur or orange juice, over the bird. Roast for 40-45 minutes, basting every 10 minutes at least. The basting is very important as pheasant can dry out easily. Cover the roasted pheasant with foil and let sit for 10 minutes.

Strain gravy pushing on the vegetables to release all of their flavour. Let stand for 10 minutes. Skim fat that rises to the top. Strain again through a cheesecloth covered bowl. Just before serving, fold in sour cream.

Yield: 2 servings
Back to top


DRAMBUIE DUCK

8 medium duck breasts, skinned, boneless (chicken can be substituted)
½ cup flour - (125ml)
½ teaspoon salt - (2.5ml)
½ teaspoon pepper - (2.5ml)
1 teaspoon freshly chopped thyme ( 5ml)
¼ cup butter - (60ml)
3 garlic cloves, crushed
2 cups chicken stock -(500ml)
6 shallots chopped
1-cup cream - (250ml)
2 tablespoons Drambuie liqueur - (30ml)
2 teaspoons chopped parsley - (20ml)

Preparation 30min Cooking 1hrTime

Place the Duck breast between two pieces of plastic and pound it out thinly using a rolling pin. Repeat with remaining breasts.

Cut the larger flattened out breasts in half until they are all approximately the same size pre- pounding.

Season your dredging flour with salt, pepper and chopped fresh thyme. Dredge the breasts through the flour.

Heat a skillet and add melt butter. Sauté the duck breasts until browned. This may have to be done 1 or 2 at a time depending on the size of the skillet. When they are all browned, set them on a plate until later.

In the same skillet add 1-2 tablespoons of butter needs to be left in skillet. Add garlic to pan and sauté for 2 minutes. Add chicken stock. Bring to a boil and return breasts back to frying pan and cover, simmering softly on low heat, for 30-40 minutes.

The breasts should become soft to the touch. Transfer the duck from the pans and cover with foil. Add shallots to the pan, cooking to attain translucency, for about 5 minutes.

Add in cream, Drambuie and parsley, then let simmer for 5 minutes. The mixture should reduce and thicken. Return the breasts to pans and coat them in sauce by stirring.

Serves 4
Back to top

Recipes courtesy of Chef Michael Bonacini of Toronto’s Oliver Bonacini Restaurants, including ‘Canoe’; ‘Auberge du Pommier’; ‘Biff’s’; ‘Jump Café’; & ‘Steakfrites’